Sixty-seven percent of households leak 38 litres of water per day. Worse yet, five percent of households leak an average of more than 380 litres per day! Reducing your water consumption by repairing leaks and drips and by replacing old, less water-efficient fixtures with new water-saving devices helps to reduce your operating costs, create a more comfortable, healthy environment for tenants and helps to solve a global problem.
To identify conservation opportunities:
A significant amount of water can be wasted by leaks created by damaged piping; corroded valves, worn washers and leaking toilets. A leak of one drop per second can waste as much as 10,000 litres of water per year. Hot water can be as much as 20% of total energy costs in the average home. If hot water is leaking, the energy used to heat the water is also wasted. A toilet that continues to run after flushing can waste up to 200,000 litres per year that’s enough to fill a swimming pool. If a toilet leak is substantial, you should be able to hear the water running. If the leak is small and you are not sure if you can hear it or not, tint the tank with food colouring. If the tinted water gradually seeps into the bowl, there is a leak. (Do not leave the coloured water in the toilet bowl for an extended time period as it may discolour the bowl interior.)
Make sure all your water outlets are turned off then check your water meter. If it’s still running you likely have a leak. Alternatively read the meter just prior to, and immediately following a period of low minimal usage, such as when residents are sleeping. If the water meter indicates more than minimal consumption during this off-time, then there is a strong possibility that the system is leaking water. Simple tests like these as part of a general test and tune-up program can save thousands of dollars a year in operating costs. Maintenance is a key component in any water conservation program. Tank tests, flapper tests and bag tests for shower heads can be carried out in a matter of minutes and will pay for themselves in a matter of weeks.
When purchasing new products keep in mind the figures below and purchase the ones with the least water consuming tendencies. Average water consumption for: Toilet flush, 6 to 30 litres per flush, Showering, 6 to 20 litres per minute, Bathtub, 115 to 190 litres per full tub, Washing machine, 85 to 150 litres per cycle, Dishwasher, 26 to 56 litres per cycle, Kitchen faucet, 7.6 to 11.3 litres per minute, Bathroom faucet, 7.6 to 11.3 litres per minute.
The cost of water supply varies significantly from one municipality to another, and is increasing in most locations at a fairly rapid rate. Removing of old design toilets and replacing them with a new six-litre toilet will reduce water consumption by 50 percent or more. Low flow toilets new units range in cost from $150 to $400 and have an average payback period of three to six years. In some municipalities there are incentive programs to help offset this cost. Many municipalities charge for waste water treatment and disposal using a formula based on the amount of water purchased by each user. In these locations, you can save twice – by paying for less water and from the associated reduction in sewage treatment charges.
In Canada, the average person consumes about 326 litres of water per person per day. The shower is the second heaviest water user in the home. With a standard showerhead flow of 20 litres per minute, an average family of four, each taking a five-minute shower each day, would use about 2,800 litres of water per week. Replace that showerhead with one that uses only six to 10 litres per minute, and the usage would drop to about 1,300 litres per week (more than 50%). Low-flow showerheads range in price from about $15 to $75 or more. The typical payback period will depend on which unit is purchased and how the residents use water but should be in the range of six months to three years.
The installation of faucet aerators on bathroom and kitchen faucet aerators can save up to 50 percent of the water usage and energy consumption (because of hot water use) from those devices. Also be sure to replace washer-type faucets with washer less faucets. Washer less faucet assemblies not only help reduce the amount of water that is wasted but lower on-going repair costs as well. As with Shower heads, the pay back period for this kind of replacement is very short.
Choose a front loading washing machine. Not only does a front loading washing machine save water, it saves energy as well. It uses about 40% less water and about 50% less energy. Usually you can fit about 30% more clothes in a front load washer, it is easier on your clothes, meaning that clothes last longer, does a better job at removing water during the spin cycle which means less drying time and is much quieter. An ENERGY STAR front-loading clothes washer costs about $600 to $1,200. With average energy and water savings of $170 a year, it will pay for itself in payback period of 3.5 years.
Conduct a site design audit to identify opportunities to reduce storm water runoff through landscaping design, reduction of impervious surfaces and alternative storm water management systems. Check with your city codes then have your plumber re-route your gray water to trees and gardens rather than letting it run into the sewer line. Alternatively use harvested rain water for non-potable use (e.g. flushing toilets) or landscape irrigation. Direct rain spouts to vegetated areas. Landscape with native and drought-resistant plants and minimize turf. Raise the lawn mower blade to 2.5 to 3 inches. A lawn cut higher encourages grass roots to grow deeper and holds soil moisture better than a closely-clipped lawn. Pay attention to rain fall patterns and be sure not to water grass and plants when rain is available. When possible do not water the lawn on windy days. There’s too much evaporation it can waste up to 300 gallons in one watering. Use a rain gauge, or improvised device (empty tuna can), to track rainfall on your lawn. Then reduce your watering accordingly. Be sure to aerate your lawn at least once a year so water can reach the roots rather than run off the surface.
The average Canadian household devotes 60 per cent of its total energy use solely to space heating. Therefore making smart decisions about your home’s heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills and comfort. If you are experiencing excessive noise, discomfort or high utility bills it may be time to invest in a new furnace.
Currently the minimum standards require that a furnace have efficiency rating of 78% but as of December 31, 2009, Natural Resources Canada is proposing to increase the minimum annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) of furnaces to 90%. A gas furnace with an AFUE rating of 95% means that 95 cents of every $1.00 of heating energy expense warms your home.
High efficiency furnaces also known as condensing gas furnaces are the main component used for space heating they not only use less fuel but run much quieter and possess the ability to maintain a more constant temperature. Look for the ENERGY STAR® symbols: their furnaces must have (AFUE) ratings of 90% or higher. Older furnaces can have efficiency levels as low as 60% while mid efficiency models average around 80%.
High-efficiency models only cost about $500 to $1000 more in material costs than mid-efficiency units. Most of the time utilities offer rebates that will cover much of the difference. Replacing an old furnace with a high efficiency one can save you over $300 a year and reduce your house’s greenhouse gas emissions by one tonne. In addition to the natural gas savings, a reduction of 20 to 30 per cent of the electricity used by the furnace fan can be obtained by selecting a furnace with a variable speed brushless Direct Current motor. The payback period depends on local energy costs, the price of the system, the difference in efficiency between the new and old furnaces and climate. Overall on average high-efficiency furnaces will take less than six years to pay for it self.
A furnace of the correct size will operate more efficiently, last longer and thus save you money. A high-efficiency model can generally be somewhat smaller than an older or a mid-efficiency furnace. To find out how many BTU’s your furnace should be (the size), have a qualified heating contractor do a building heat loss calculation.
The cost of a high-efficiency boiler can be up to twice that of a conventional boiler. Most of the time utilities offer rebates that will cover reasonable amounts of the difference. High efficiency boilers pay for themselves in about five years or less when you consider the rising fuel prices and the life of the boiler, which is guaranteed at 25 years. ENERGY STAR® qualified boilers have (AFUE) ratings of 85% or greater, while most old boilers are typically in the 55-65% range.
The gases coming out of the flue in a high efficiency condensing boiler have a temperature of approximately 50-60° F as compared to 120° or more in a non-condensing boiler. The more efficient your boiler, the less fuel you use, which results in lower bills. However, this does not necessarily mean that you should buy the most efficient boiler on the market. That decision depends on many factors — for example: the cost of the system, whether you use gas or oil, how well your building is insulated, and your climate. The size of the boiler is extremely important a highly efficient boiler will most likely be much smaller in size. A large oversized boiler will reduce efficiency and result in unnecessary amounts of wasted fuel.
Before purchasing a furnace or boiler you should ensure that all ductwork is properly sealed, in good condition and well insulated. You should also consider installing a programmable thermostat that will allow you to preset temperatures for specific times of the day and night. Inquire about zoned heating devices that allows for a better application of heat, similar to non-central heating systems. Zones are controlled by multiple thermostats which either allow or block air through the system as desired.
Do not forget about the building envelope or the “skin” of the building and be sure the roof and walls are properly insulated and sealed in order to minimize air leakage (Please refer to our previous tips on roofing and weatherization). Before any major purchase visualize the house as a system: your building is only as strong as its weakest link.
An important part of any housing providers’ energy efficiency program is ensuring that major appliances are as efficient as possible. One way of achieving that outcome is to switch to ENERGY STAR® appliances.
One of the biggest consumers of energy in the home is the fridge. Although energy savings are attained at the unit level when an old unit is replaced by an ENERGY STAR® unit, the story does not end there.
Unless a fridge is taken off the market and out of use through a decommissioning process, the energy saved in one place is used in another. That means that from a community standpoint, and when it comes to reducing the effects of Global Warming, the goal has not been accomplished.
There are also other important considerations to take into account. Reducing waste streams headed for landfill is an important outcome as is reducing the amount of hazardous waste entering the atmosphere. Of these materials, one of the most dangerous in terms of environmental hazards is Fluorocarbon refrigerants.
Fluorocarbon refrigerant contained in air conditioners and refrigerators can be extremely harmful to the environment. 1kg of refrigerant emissions (R410a) has the same greenhouse impact as two tonnes of carbon dioxide, which is comparable to the equivalent of running your car for six months.
A technician that holds a Refrigerant Handling License has the training and skills to minimize the emissions of these refrigerants to the atmosphere. It is an offence for anyone else to handle fluorocarbon refrigerants.
According to the OPA, a proper decommissioning process ensures that more than 95 per cent of materials from all old, inefficient fridges, freezers or air conditioners are recycled.
In many jurisdictions decommissioning is mandatory in any incentive program. SHSC supports the decommissioning of appliances in all replacement programs.
What follows is a step by step description of the decommissioning process.
Cords are cut and thermostats are broken to disable appliances. At the processing plant, refrigerators are placed onto one of five lines of rollers. As many as 300 refrigerators can be loaded at one time. The bar code of the fridge is scanned, recording that the unit has been received and decommissioned.
All loose plastic and aluminum is removed and separated. Plastic is later baled or crushed and recycled. Aluminum and copper are salvaged from each air conditioning unit. Specialized hoses are then attached to extract the propellants — commonly known as CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons) which can be harmful to the environment. The process for freezers varies slightly. Their mercury switches are removed. (More propellants are housed in the insulating foam than in the refrigerator lines; both sources are disposed of in an environmentally responsible manner.)
A hole is drilled in the back of each refrigerator’s compressor. The refrigerators are placed onto a “Tipper Table” so that all of the compressor oil can be collected and properly disposed of. At this point, units with polyurethane foam insulation have their compressors removed; the units insulated with fiberglass are left with the compressors inside to be baled later. Air conditioners have their covers and PCB capacitors removed and disposed of properly before they are sent on for baling.
The units arrive at the baling machine, which crushes the remaining metal, i.e., the “shell” of the refrigerators, freezers and air conditioners.
Refrigerators are crushed four at a time into “blocks”. Refrigerators and freezers with foam insulation are baled and taken to a steel mill, where they are destroyed. Units insulated with fiberglass are baled and sent to a shredder. The material is reused.
Reusing, recycling, and disposing of the various components of the retrieved units means less landfill. Each refrigerator has about four kilograms of foam insulation. About 10 to 15 per cent of the weight of the foam insulation is comprised of CFC-based blowing agents. The destruction of these CFCs prevents 1.8 – 2.8 tonnes of carbon dioxide from being emitted into the atmosphere. Most of the steel produced through the decommissioning process is used to make reinforcing bars for bridges (rebar) and other useful materials.
Planning a Renovation, Retrofit or Regeneration Project? Make Sure you Have the Right Insurance Coverage
Are you planning a project as part of the Social Housing Renovation and Retrofit Program? SHSC can help with your insurance needs, which will be above and beyond the regular requirements of your day-to-day operations.
Typically, damage to buildings under construction and the materials that go into the construction are not usually covered by property insurance. However, as a member of the SHSC Group Insurance program your policy does cover physical damage up to a limit of $500,000 on any one project for changes, alterations, repairs or additions to existing properties. This is important to know as your contractors can eliminate the cost of this insurance from their bids and save you money. To make sure this cost does not get reflected in your bid, we can provide standard wording to exclude this insurance from your contract.
If you need coverage for a project with a contract price of more than $500,000, you can purchase a Builder’s Risk Insurance Policy through SHSC Group Insurance. This may be a good option to consider, as purchasing this policy through the group may be more cost-effective than getting the contractor to buy this coverage through their own broker.
You may also want to consider purchasing additional Wrap-Up Liability Coverage, which is not included in the standard policy of the SHSC Group Program. Wrap-Up Liability Coverage provides liability insurance for everyone involved in the project – building owners, consultants, contractors and all sub-contractors – for injury or damage to property of third parties. By purchasing this coverage yourself you will know the insurance limits everyone in your project carries and will be confident that all parties, including sub-contractors, are adequately insured.
Replacing a roof due to damage and/or age presents an excellent opportunity to improve energy efficiency, comfort levels for tenants, reduce operating costs and C02 emissions which cause Global Warming.
In the case of a sloped roof aim for a minimum of R40 or, preferably, R50. Insulation will not meet its maximum effect in an attic setting unless the attic is properly sealed and a continuous vapour barrier has been installed.
For a flat roof aim for a minimum of R30. This may not always be achievable because of other structural issues such as rooftop mechanical rooms, roof access points and ridge height, but it is important to instruct your contractor to achieve as high a level as possible.
Further savings can be achieved by using light coloured shingles, surface coatings or gravel. These materials reflect heat during summer months rather then absorbing it as dark coloured materials do. An energy efficient roof should reflect a high percentage of solar energy and radiate away energy (heat) after it is absorbed. ENERGY STAR® cool or reflective roof products reflect more of the sun’s rays, lowering a roof surface temperature by up to 100 degrees, and reducing the amount of heat transferred into a home. The ENERGY STAR® program presently considers reflectance only, not emittance. A Roof’s emissivity relates to how quickly it releases heat it has absorbed. Because of this property cooling costs are reduced. This measure also helps to reduce “heat island effect”, a contributor to global warming, particularly in dense urban areas.
As with every energy efficient retrofit measure, maximum results are achieved by combining efforts. The savings gained by a well insulated roof are leveraged by caulking and weatherstripping the building envelope which, in turn, maximizes the efficiency of the HVAC system or, in the case where a system is being replaced, can result in a smaller, less expensive replacement.
Roof replacement time is also the best time to consider a renewable energy system. Because Solar systems have a life span of at least 20 years and, in the case of Solar PV, Solar Thermal and Solar Air roofing, a considerable portion of the cost is installation on the roof, a new roof gives a much greater degree of certainty that these systems will not need to be removed for re-roofing.
Combining all of these measures will result in a healthier, more comfortable building, reduced operating costs, a revenue stream (in the case of Solar PV) from the Feed In Tariff (FIT) and a greener community.